Mystical Mandalay

It was a hidden gem once upon a time, and now has its doors open to beguile visitors with its unique and charismatic charms. Unparalleled in comparison with its neighboring countries, Burma (Myanmar) is the time-warped odd man out. Rudyard Kipling, best known as the author of The Jungle Book once quoted as saying “Burma is nothing like you’ve ever known”. Little has changed since then, from its secluded unspoilt beaches and serene waterways to the rolling hills dotted with glittering pagodas,  from its enchanting fishing villages to some of the region’s most spiritual sights. Myanmar truly is one of a kind.

There are very few places on the planet that has the right mix of flavors to create authentic bastions of the country’s coalescing history with heterogeneity, and very few are as rich as the Burmese heritage. A month back, I visited Mandalay, the engine that drive upper Myanmar’s economy and its historical hub. It has also played a vital role in Burmese history, despite being a relatively recent creation, only being founded in 1857 as the capital of the Kingdom of Ava by Mindon Min, the penultimate king of Burma. Mandalay is named after Mandalay Hill, and bears the term “mandala”, representing spiritual and religious symbols of Buddhism and Hinduism, also the world around us. And it is no surprise that half of the country’s monks reside in or around Mandalay.

Getting to Mandalay

All foreign nationals entering the Republic of the Union of Myanmar are required to obtain a visa unless he or she is from a visa exempted country. Check with the nearest Myanmar embassy or consulate for assistance – Citizens of Australia, Canada and United States require a visa. You can also apply for an e-Visa through the website of the Ministry of Labour, Immigration and Population, and have it printed and handy for inspection by Immigration officers at any of the six ports of entry, three international airports and three land border checkpoints.

There are dozens of VIP air-conditioned buses and other economical services that operate day and night from Taunggyim, Nay Pyi Taw and Bagan. I traveled on a day bus with JJ Express, we departed Bagan Shwe Pyi Highway Bus Terminal at 9am and arrived by 2pm, and the bus fare cost $US8 for one-way. You’ll probably have to get a taxi or a mini-bus from your Bagan accommodation to the bus station, for me it cost US8 for a taxi ride and that is expensive, but I didn’t have any other choice since I was getting late to get to the bus station. Bus tickets could also be purchased through most hostels, guesthouses and hotels. You can also take the 11-hour slow boat which costs $35 to $40. There are also many domestic airlines that operate daily flights from Nay Pyi Taw, Nyaung U, Heho and Yangon to Mandalay. Air KBZ, Asian Wings Airways, Mann Yadanarpon Airlines, Myanmar National Airlines, Yangon Airways or Myanmar Airways International could cost up to $US100 per one-way economy class flight. Keep in mind that delayed flights are a norm in Myanmar and domestic flights has a poor safety record. You could also travel by train from Yangon to Mandalay, or from Bagan to Mandalay. Again, you’ll have to keep in mind that Burmese trains can be bumpy and loud and there has been lots of cases of lost luggage.

Best time to visit Mandalay

It is ideal to visit between April and October to avoid the wet summer months that bring the monsoon rains. The northern and highland regions of Myanmar are cooler than the coastal and delta regions, including Yangon, where average temperatures are 32°C.

Getting around

If you book your accommodation at the city centre in Mandalay, you’ll probably find it a lot easier to walk around to most places. But, there are only a limited number of road signs and many intersections are not monitored, so you’ll have to be very careful as a pedestrian. If you are a solo traveler, GrabBike taxi’s will be the most ideal mode of transportation around Mandalay, and that’s as long as you are provided with a spare safety helmet. GrabBike’s from most hotels to restaurants and to the ferry station are 1,000 kyats one way or 2,000 kyats for a round trip. Finding regular taxi’s can be difficult in Mandalay and the prices are 6,000 kyats one way or 10,000 kyats for a round trip to most hotels, restaurants and to the ferry station.

There are also pickups that serve as public transportation, but they are usually full and very confusing. Tourists can also rent motorbikes, mopeds and bicycles, however Mandalay is mostly flat, humid and dusty. Then again, I wouldn’t suggest it due to its horrendous traffic conditions. I hired a private driver for a full day where I wanted to visit and see important sights and attractions, most of it outside the city.

Aung Mandalay Private Driver/Guide
Facebook message him
Phone: +959401681525
Email: sevenaungaung@gmail.com

Where to stay

There are plenty of choices for accommodation in Mandalay that will suit all budgets, and I recommend you book your accommodation in the city and close to restaurants.

Cheap stays: Ostello Bello Mandalay, Yoe Yoe Lay Homestay, Four Rivers B&B ($US6 to $US8a night with breakfast).
Mid-range: Royal Yadanarbon Hotel, The Home Hotel, Hotel Iceland ($US16 to $US30 a night with breakfast).
Luxury: Mercure Mandalay Hill Resort, Hilton Mandalay, Rupar Mandalay Resort ($US77 to $US127 a night with breakfast).

What to see and do

You can spend a week in Mandalay and still not run out of places to see and things to do.

1. Kuthodaw Pagoda – Built in the year 1857 by King Mindon Min, the Kuthodaw Pagoda or the Maha Lawka Marazein sits at the base of the southern staircase of Mandalay Hill. It contains 729 crisp white stupas that make up “the world’s largest book.” Buddhist scriptures are inscribed on individual marble slabs that are housed in its own shrine, called kyauksa gu, decorated with precious gems at the top, and are arranged around the central golden pagoda.

2. Mandalay Hill – While most areas of Mandalay are flat, this 240-meter high hill offers stunning views of Mandalay from the top. There is also an elevator and escalator at the base of the temple. Visitors are required to remove the shoes before entering the complex.

3. Hsinbyume Pagoda – It is the stunning white temple located in North Mingun, inspired by Mount Meru, a Buddhist mythological mountain. The pagoda was built in 1816 to honor Princess Hsinbyume (Princess White Elephant), the consort of the seventh king of the Konbaung dynasty of Burma. It is not a massive complex and all levels are easily accessible, and must not be missed during a visit to Mandalay.

4. Mingun Bell – The Mingun Bell was made to go with the Mingun Pahtodawgyi, but was never completed. Until the year 2000, it was the world’s largest ringing bell weighing 90 tons, but was eclipsed by another contender from China. Bodawpaya, the the sixth king of the Konbaung Dynasty of Burma first began its construction in 1790, slavery caused a massive drain on manpower and resources. Some also suspect it to be the reason for the cessation.

5. Mingun Pahtodawgyi – The bizzare stupa is located 11 kilometers up the Ayeyarwady River and is renowned for the cracks running through the brick facade, which was caused by an earthquake in 1839. The temple was never completed because an astrologer preached that the king would die upon its completion. Today it stands at one third of its intended height, and had the stupa been completed it would have been the largest in the world standing at a staggering height of 490 feet.

6. The Giant Lions – In front of the Mingun Pahtodawgyi pagoda facing the river are the ruins of two giant chinthe lion statues. It was built in the year 1799 to guard the pagoda from evil spirits. The actual plan was to have the main entrance to the pagoda accessible from the river bank then up between the two lion statues directly on to the main temple entrance.

7. Umin Thonse` Pagoda (30 Caves Pagoda) – Located at the top of the Sagaing Hills, the pagoda is backed by spectacular views over Mandalay and the Ayeyarwady River. There are 30 caves and 45 Buddha images in a crescent-shaped colonnade inside the pagoda, uniting their hands, “calling earth to witness” mudra. It was Padugyi Thangayaza, a revered monk who first gave orders in the 11th century to build the pagoda. It is decorated with ceramic mosaics covering the interior walls with small plaques acknowledging donors, many from overseas.

8. U Bein Bridge – Built in 1849, the U Bein Bridge is the oldest and the longest teak-wood bridge in the world. It spans a distance of 1.2 kilometers and are used by locals to cross the Taungthaman Lake. It can be very crowded during sunrise and sunset, with hordes of tourists flocking to photograph the golden hour. Some tourists also hire small motor and paddle-boats from the western shore when they can’t secure a good spot to capture photographs.

9. Mandalay Palace – The massive fortress is located near Mandalay Hill in the middle of the moat, and in the heart of Mandalay, and it is very unlikely that you will miss it during your stay in Mandalay. It was built in 1857, and served as the the royal palace of the last two kings of the Burmese monarchy. It no longer had the status of a royal residence when the royal family was captured in 1885. The entrance fees for foreigners are 10,000 kyat ($7.5).

10. Eat authentic Burmese food – Rice is the cornerstone of Burmese cuisine, with an array of meat, fish and vegetable served as side dishes. Mohinga is one of the national dishes in Myanmar, it’s a fragrant, hot and sour fish soup served over noodles and are frequently eaten during breakfast. Don’t miss Mogok Daw Shan Noodle and Mingalabar Myanmar Restaurant if you are visiting Mandalay, they serve some of the best Burmese food in Mandalay.

Myanmar is a country that was isolated for almost half a century under a totalitarian military dictatorship, and during the course, it had endured awful human rights violations that the whole world watched. Although the military junta ceased control of the country in 2011, they still maintain significant influence within the government and the country is still suffering from oppression, poverty and serious ethnic conflicts. With the former U.S. President Barack Obama’s visit to Yangon in 2012 and tourism opening up across the nation, the world continues to watch Myanmar. My short stay in Myanmar was incredible and so is its people. Don’t listen to what others say but instead go and see it yourself. I cannot wait to return to spend more time in Yangon and Inle Lake.