Bagan: A Journey Through the Sands of Time

As the sun sheds its first morning light and envelopes the landscape from the distant horizon, and when the hot air balloons take their flight, there is nothing short of magical. It’s just like a fairy-tale straight out from the Tagaung Kingdom! And if you appreciate the charms of Angkor Wat and Borobudur, then you are certainly going to fall in love with this ancient South-east Asian archaeological wonder, revered as the “Land of the Pagodas”. It once had the silhouette of some 4,446 pagodas and stupas, but now only a little over 2,000 are left sprawling across a stretch of 26-square-kilometers of grassy countryside in Central Western Myanmar.

Myanmar, also known as Burma is one of those strange countries that has been off the tourist radar for decades, in fact people knew very little about it and only a few dared to venture into the unknown. Since the beginning of 2016, Myanmar has seemingly become much easier to access and traverse, but there are still no-go areas for tourists. When I first planned my trip to Myanmar, I was frequently asked by locals “Why Myanmar?” and “Is Myanmar safe for travelers?”, and the reality is far from what the media has made us to believe, here’s my Burmese adventure.

Getting to Bagan

All foreign nationals entering the Republic of the Union of Myanmar are required to obtain a visa unless he or she is from a visa exempted country. Check with the nearest Myanmar embassy or consulate for assistance – Citizens of Australia, Canada and United States require a visa. You can also apply for an e-Visa through the website of the Ministry of Labour, Immigration and Population, and have it printed and handy for inspection by Immigration officers at any of the six ports of entry, three international airports and three land border checkpoints.

From Myanmar’s former capital, Yangon, you can take a 9-hour night bus and arrive Bagan for sunrise. There are VIP air-conditioned buses and other budget services that operate throughout day and night from Taunggyim, Nay Pyi Taw and Mandalay. I traveled with JJ Express, which departed at 10pm from Yangon and arrived at 7am, one-way bus fare cost $US12. Bus tickets could also be purchased through your accommodation, but keep in mind that the Aung Mingalar Bus Station in Yangon is far from downtown so allow an hour or more considering the horrendous traffic. I got a taxi to the bus station for 12,000 kyats ($US9). You can also take the 15-hour slow boat from Mandalay to Nyaung U jetty and cruise the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwaddy River), but they only operate twice a week. There are many domestic airlines that operate daily flights from Nay Pyi Taw, Mandalay, Heho and Yangon to Nyaung U Airport, about eleven kilometers from Bagan. Air KBZ, Asian Wings Airways, Mann Yadanarpon Airlines, Myanmar National Airlines, Yangon Airways or Myanmar Airways International could cost up to $US100 per one-way economy class flight. Do take note that delayed flights are a norm in Myanmar and domestic flights has a poor safety record. If you have all the time in the world, you could also opt the overnight train from Yangon to Bagan, or from Mandalay to Bagan. The trains arrive at Bagan Railway Station, but the Burmese trains can be bumpy and loud and there has been many cases of lost luggage.

Note: Bagan is an Archaeological Zone and a fee of 25,000 kyats or $US20 is applicable for tourists entering the archaeological zone. If you arrive by boat or plane, you’ll pay the fees at the port of entry. If you arrive by bus or train, it will be collected at a checkpoint where your driver will stop and you’ll have to pay for it (these checkpoints are manned around the clock, so even if you arrive at 3am, you’ll still have to pay for it). You will be given a 5-day access pass, so make sure you carry it with you at all times during your stay within the Bagan archaeological zone.

As I disembarked from the bus at the Shwe Pyi Highway Bus Terminal, I was promptly surrounded by touts and drivers, all of them were competing for customers. The average rate to get to Old Bagan is 3000 kyats per person, I tried my best to haggle for an hour, but only managed to get a ride for 5000 kyats. I also tried the option of sharing a taxi ride with others that arrived with me from Yangon, but none of them seemed to be heading to Old Bagan.

Once the capital of a mighty Buddhist kingdom is now a candidate running for UNESCO world heritage status. It’s sheer scale is almost impossible to take in, yet its individual temples, pagodas, stupas and monasteries continues to impress its visitors in so many different dimensions – from its evocative frescoes to their imposing bulk and graceful simplicity. Over the centuries, it had been decimated by several earthquakes; restoration work is currently in progress for many of them.

Best time to visit Bagan

November through February are ideal months to visit Bagan when the temperature drops to 30C (86F), it is also the peak period for tourism. Please avoid March to May, as the temperatures can reach 43C (110F) and this will be off-season for hot-air ballooning. The highest rainfall are through the months from June to October. Keep note that the Ananda Pagoda Festival is celebrated in late December or early January subjected to the lunar calendar.

Getting around

Bicycle – Exploring Bagan on a bike can be difficult to impossible, considering its vastness, but then if you have the energy for it, go ahead, but make sure you take all the necessary precautions to protect yourself from the heat, dust and potential roadside accidents. Daily rental charges for bikes could be around 2000 kyats ($US2).
E-bike (Electric bicycle) – It is currently the most preferred mode of transportation to get around Bagan. E-bike rentals are aplenty, your accommodation could possibly be renting it out too. The rental prices vary depending on how new or big the e-bike is. Remember to get a contact number of the person you’re renting from just in case your e-bike breaks down in the middle of the road, also make sure you test it out for defects before renting. Prices start from 3500 kyats ($US3) per half-day (5 hours). (Note: Tourists are not allowed to ride motorcycles in Bagan).
Horse cart – There was a time when it was the most popular way to get around Bagan, but now its the most “Instagrammable” option. It is a slower mode when compared with the rest of all the transportation options in Bagan, and although it features a roof shield for protection from the sun, there is still the dust to combat. Your driver can also be your guide and you can rent a horse cart for half-day or full-day from  15,000 to 25,000 kyats ($US12 to $US15).
Taxi – This is certainly the most convenient way to get around Bagan. You can rent a private air-conditioned car for half-day or full-day, and your driver will be your guide. Prices range from 25,000 to 70,000 kyats ($US20 to $US50).
Hot Air Balloon – Hot Air Ballooning does not operate throughout the year, it only runs from October to March. Each flight can take between 45 minutes to one hour, and it is recommended to book in advance since there is high demand for it during the season and peak periods. Prices range from 450,000 to 550,000 kyats ($US350 to $US400).

Where to stay
Bagan comprises of three major areas: Nyaung-U, the most established and are renowned for its abundant accommodation options, food venues and cafés, it is also a preferred area for most travelers. Old Bagan is where the ancient capital is, its an upmarket area consisting of expensive hotels and resorts, though it’s closer to most of the popular archaeological sites. New Bagan is the furthest from the archaeological sites, but worth staying since it has a good number of inexpensive accommodation options.

Cheap stays: Ostello Bello Bagan, Ostello Bello Bagan Pool, Lux Pillow Hostel ($US7 to $US14 a night with breakfast).
Mid-range: Royal Bagan Hotel, Hotel Yadanarbon Bagan, Zfreeti Hotel ($US23 to $US59 a night with breakfast).
Luxury: Aureum Palace Hotel and Resort, Bagan Lodge Hotel ($US137 to $US150 a night with breakfast).

What to see and do

You can spend your time in Bagan in so many ways. Here are a few things to do during your stay.

1. Bagan Sunset Cruise – Enjoy the golden hour in a traditional boat over the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwaddy River). The boat captain will first sail upriver, and glide peacefully towards the sunset, giving you the perfect angle to capture the sunset and enjoy a delicious cocktail. Prices start from 8000 kyats ($US6) per person.

2. Climb a pagoda to capture photos of the incredible sunrise – Bagan is world-renowned for its picturesque sunrises and sunsets. However, it is no longer legal to climb most of the temples. I woke up at 4.45am and rented an e-bike and took off with a map of the temples to capture the sunrise. Soon I was approached by a friendly local girl who escorted me to a pagoda, where already a few others gathered and climbed its roof to capture the sunrise.

3. Go Hot Air Ballooning – It’s nearly impossible to imagine Bagan without the hot air balloons clouding the scenic horizon. Hot air ballooning in Bagan has already become an iconic symbol, and it is one of the reasons that has brought so many travelers on soaring adventures to Myanmar.

4. Buy and wear a longyi – It is a like a skirt worn by young, old, men, women, rich and poor alike. It is approximately 2 meters long and 80 centimeters wide. I bought one from a young local girl and it cost 5000 kyats ($US4).

5. Eat authentic Burmese food – It is somewhat oily, and may lack the diversity and firy spicing of cuisine from its neighboring Thailand.

6. Go temple hopping on e-bike – Home to over 2,000 temples, stupas and pagodas are enough reasons to go e-biking and the chances are that you’ll still not be able to see them all even in a week.

I spent two amazing days in Bagan and left to Mandalay. Have you been to Bagan? What did you like about it? Does this post make you want to go?